Like a rude dinner guest, winter just refuses to depart. To warm up, how about a culinary journey down to sunny Rio? We took such a trip when we visited Fogo de Chao, 698 Wharf St. SW, the seventh offshoot of the nationwide chain. Based on the Brazilian churrascaria concept, guests settle in, order their drinks and partake of a bountiful Market Table (salad bar). We first experienced a churrascaria years ago in Rio, but Fogo Chao’s seemingly endless salad bar is much longer. Items might include green salads, smoked salmon, hearts of palm, cheeses, salami, fruits and nuts, grains, yogurt, a few desserts. Warning: Don’t fill up. There’s more to come, much more.
For our visit, we were ed by a friend who was even more familiar with this concept and helped us through the interesting process. Here’s the deal: For $50 per person, diners first order their drinks and partake of the Market Table. Then, unlimited skewered meats are brought around by servers. You can request rare, medium or well-done cuts. Rotating selections might include filet mignon, pork, picanha (prime sirloin), lamb chops, beef ribs, garlic beef, linguica sausage, frango (chicken). Each diner receives a cardboard disc; one side is green, the other red. When you want more meat, keep the green side up. To indicate “no more!” flip it to red.
But you don’t have to go whole hog. Fogo’s ala carte menu includes pan-seared salmon, cauli-flower steak, Chilean sea bass. Peter ordered the latter ($46) and it was delicious, moist, flaky and topped with papaya vinaigrette and escorted by grilled asparagus.
Priced at $35, a special brunch Market Table offers seasonal veggies, soups, cheeses, cured meats, omelets, waffles and more. Also available are appetizers: jumbo shrimp cocktail, seafood towers and chilled lobster and shrimp.
This place is not cheap; brunch for two came to $135 including a generously garnished bloody Mary with crisp bacon, celery stick and olives, and a nice glass of Malbec. But our experience was well worth the hefty tab. Fogo de Chao is open daily. For exact hours and more information visit www.fofodechao.com.
In the Pink
Nearby, also at the Wharf, is another newbie: Pink Tiger, 751 Wharf St. SW, where Kiliwa used to be. Pink Tiger is beautifully decorated with whimsical pink tiger motifs, funky artwork. The LED-lit fireplace is—you guessed it—pink. Wallpaper is a swirl of pink and violet. Pastel floral prints adorn chairs. The gorgeous, expanded bar is topped with marble and lit from underneath—pink of course.
Filipino chef Joe Castro, who is classically trained in French and Italian cuisine, showcases “Southeast Asian fare with American flair.”
ed by two friends, we ventured to Pink Tiger on a frigid, snowy Wednesday. To warm up, I requested hot sake, only to learn it was only served cold. But our server, Leslie, thoughtfully heated mine up. Rather than zap it in a microwave (Pink Tiger has none), she warmed it in a pouch, sort of like sous vide.
Peter had planned to order the Thai pumpkin soup; but Leslie presented each of us with a com-plimentary cup of the delicious potage, perfumed with coconut milk, ginger and lemongrass. Then we shared pan-fried dumplings (a half dozen) filled with chicken, scented with lemongrass and sprinkled with scallions. Lumpia (Filipino-style spring rolls) were filled with shrimp and pork and enveloped in crispy, paper-thin wrappings. Edamame arrived piping hot (“wok tossed”) and sea-soned with sesame oil, furikake (Japanese condiment) and maldon, a type of salt.
Also emerging from chef Castro’s kitchen are miso deviled eggs capped with truffles; hot crab Rangoon dip with Sriracha cream cheese, scallions, Thai chili sauce and wonton chips; and thin-ly sliced wagyu beef cooked tableside atop a “hot rock” (lava stone) with ponzu sauce.
Among more familiar options are Korean-style chicken wings, glazed salmon, green curry with mussels, Filipino chicken adobo. An unusual marriage of East and West is Mediterranean mous-saka, concocted with Japanese eggplant, cheeses, Béchamel, fried garlic, basil and smoked paprika. Dessert? Try the fried cheesecake. Besides sake, the handsome bar pours dashi-infused martinis, Asian beers, wine and other potent (and non-potent) potables.
Lunch for two, with my $15 Jumal Ginjo sake, came to $77 including tax and tip. Leslie’s attend-ance was excellent. By the way, a pink tiger holds spiritual significance in Asian culture. For more information visit www.pinktigerdc.com.
Mediterranean Delights
Along the “Avenue,” Mezeh Mediterranean Grill, 333 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, has finally opened at the site of the former Roland’s grocery. The handsome décor features attractive Middle Eastern motifs and plenty of seating. Customers survey the colorful array, place their orders and await their food. So far, we’ve had the falafel kick (wrap) and classic bowl, both were generous and delicious. The falafel wrap envelops spicy hummus, tabbouleh, cherry tomatoes, cabbage and feta dressing. The classic bowl—big enough for two—is replete with chicken, rice, eggplant, cherry tomatoes and more. Among other options are Greek and Caesar salads, chicken shawarma, lamb gyros, wraps, salads, and build your own options. For more information visit www.mezeh.com.
And…
Up the street, there is DC Falafel, 1123 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, next to the recently expanded Frager’s Hardware. The Middle Eastern/Mediterranean fast casual newcomer serves flavorful falafel wraps, combo wraps, assorted falafel platters served with rice and salad, hummus, beef and lamb shawarma, baklava. Among beverages are boba milk tea (non-dairy is available), and no booze. For more information visit www.dcfalafel.com.
Market Watch
We no longer need to schlep to Ivy City for our smoked salmon fix (although we love Ivy City Smokehouse and Tavern and visit regularly). Canales Delicatessen, in Eastern Market, now sells Ivy City’s smoked salmon salad subs. A small sub is $12.99, large is $15.99. And while you’re at it, check out Canales’ chicken noodle or ginger chicken soup. Generous enough to feed two, the savory soup is chock full of white meat and costs only $7. Eastern Market is closed on Mondays. For more information visit www.easternmarket-dc.org.
Hawkish Elevation
Hawk ‘n Dove, 329 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, is revamping its “old comfort food.” menu. The fare will be basically the same but “elevated.” In fried fish sandwiches, grouper will replace the usual cod. Burgers will become “smash burgers,” thin patties smashed together to make them crispy on the outside. Fried wings will arrive with locally made mumbo sauce. And for dinner: filet mignon will be escorted by asparagus, mashed potatoes and homemade gravy. Cocktails will be seasonal, concocted with Pratt Standard fresh mixers; local beers will rotate. “We try to use local purveyors such as Eastern Market,” added Brian Marvel, Director of Operations. Hawk ‘n Dove is open daily. For hours and menus visit www.hawkndovebardc.com.
Adios for now!
As we do every winter, Peter and I are heading for the warm and sunny (we hope!) climes of southwest Florida. Fortunately, our rental condo, badly damaged by back-to-back hurricanes last fall, has been repaired. Therefore, we will not be submitting a Capitol Cuisine in March. See you in April!
